One of the ‘frequently asked questions’ that often comes my way is whether you can use the same pattern for wovens and for knits.
In effect is it possible to make Kate or Celia and some of our other patterns in a jersey knit fabric too.
The Kate Dress and Celia Tops were both designed to be made out of woven fabrics such as linen or cotton lawn. Nice sensible, stable woven fabrics. But they do make up beautifully in jersey knits too.
So the answer to this question is – ‘Yes, BUT…”
Here are a few things you might want to consider before taking the plunge:
- The best patterns to use as a crossover from woven to knits are pretty simple shapes that have no darting through the waist, so both Kate and Celia tick those boxes.
- Choose your knit fabrics carefully. Anything with too much stretch will probably not work. A more stable jersey or something that will hold its shape and have a good return will give you a better result. The Art Gallery fabrics we have in store are the perfect cross-over fabrics.
- Jersey or knit fabric clothing tend not to have darts, even at the bust. It is a very simple alteration to remove, or partly remove, the bust dart. All you need to do is fold out the dart all the way across the front. (There is more information below so read on).
- Woven patterns require a lot more ease than knit ones do. So you may find that you need to drop down a size or even two.
- Knit garments are made up slightly differently in that the sleeves are sewn in flat, like a shirt sleeve, and then the sides seams sewn. This means you have a chance to judge how much ease to allow and you can take it in through the side seams if need be.
- You may need to finish the neck slightly differently too. I tend to go for a very simple neck band and you can see how to work out how big to make the band in the Woven Peaseblossom Tutorial.
This is how I pleated out the bust dart.
Mark on the seam allowance at the side and then draw parallel lines across the front level with the ends of the darts. Then fold the pleat out so the lines match up removing the dart.
Tidy up the side seam to remove the point at the edge of the dart.
But… and this is one of those big buts, if you have a fuller bust you may wish to keep part of the bust dart in place to give you a bit more shaping over the bust.
I have a fuller bust and frequently have to do an FBA, so I felt I needed to retain some of the dart to give a better fit. All I did was pleat out half the dart and then redraw in the dart.
I made this one a teeny bit longer and left off the frill at the hem. But you can change and adapt your pattern to suit you. That is the beauty of making your own clothes.
I hope you give the adaptation a go and I’d love to see the results so do tag us on social media.
4 thoughts on “Making More From Your Patterns – How to alter a woven pattern to make up in knit fabrics”
Thank you for this, I’ve been wanting to try a Kate in jersey ever since I made my first one in cotton! She’s my favourite dress and now I can have her in jersey, too! Yippee!
I too have been wanting to use jersey for my sewing makes and this has helped me. Going to try the Kate Dress in cotton fabric tomorrow at the sewing group I run. Wish me luck x
Oh thanks so much Jules
A very nice combination of colors. A good selection of materials is the basis of beautiful looking projects. Thanks for sharing your experience and passion for sewing with us. Your blouse looks fantastic!