How To Sew A Curved Patch Pocket

Sew Me Something Rosalind Pyjamas-4.jpgPatch pockets are one of the most versatile of all pockets and lend themselves to infinite variations and applications. They can be used on the backs of trousers, as breast pockets on shirts or feature pockets on skirts in fact any where you think you might need a pocket.

This sample deals with a curved patch pocket, but to be honest they could be any shape you choose. It is easier to mark the pocket placement line on to the garment before you begin the pocket.

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Most patch pockets will have an extended pocket facing which is folded over to neaten the top edge of the pocket. Sometimes a separate binding can be used to finish the top edge of the pocket as we have done in both the Kate Dress and the Beatrice Pinafore.

However, in this sample the facing is included. So the fold line for the facing has been marked as well by a basted line of sewing, but you could also use a fabric marker or chalk too.

Press under 1cm across the top of the pocket edge.

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Fold the pocket facing down onto the right side of the pocket along the fold line. Sew down the short sides of the  pocket facing.

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Bag out the pocket facing and turn the right way round. Poke out the corners and press it flat. You can sew across the facing to hold it in place and add a bit of decorative top-stitching.

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4.  Sew a row of easing stitches around the curved base of the pocket inside the seam allowance. And gently draw up the easing threads to create the curved shape at the base of the pocket.

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To get a beautifully even curve around the pocket cut a card template the same shape as the finished pocket. Place the template inside the pocket and gently pull up the easing threads to make the fabric fit around the template. Press the fabric with the template still in place.

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Line the top edge of the pocket up along the pocket placement marks and pin in place.

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Edge-stitch around the pocket, making sure to reverse at the start and finish to lock in the stitches. Give it a final gently press.

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To reinforce and strengthen the corners of the pockets a decorative rectangle or triangle of stitching can be added – practical as well as beautiful.