This is such a versatile pocket and constructed in pretty much the same way regardless of the shape of the pocket bag. As the name suggests it’s a pocket that is sewn into the seam of a garment, both horizontal and vertical. We have used them in both the Helena Dress and in the Rosalind Pyjama trousers.
If you are using light weight fabric it can be an idea to add a strip of light-weight or ultra soft interfacing to the wrong side of the opening edge of the pocket. Add a strip of about 3cm width and just a bit longer than the pocket opening to both sides of the seam where the pocket will go. This just helps to hold the pocket in place and keep its shape.
Mark the pocket opening with chalk or a fabric pen.
Lay the pocket pieces with the right side down onto the right side of the front and back garment. Sew the pocket to the garment with a 1cm seam allowance.
Press the pocket bag and the seam away from the body of the garment and understitch the pocket to the seam allowance to prevent the pocket bag rolling back.
Under stitching is where you sew a scant 2mm away from the seam through the pocket and seam allowances. I know its only just visible here, next time I’ll use contracting thread.
Place the front and back garments and pocket bags together with the right sides touching. Pin together around the garment and pocket bag making sure the pocket opening marks are lined up.
With a 1.5cm seam allowance sew from the top of the seam down to the top pocket opening point. Pivot at this mark, sew around the pocket bag stopping at the second pocket opening mark, pivot again and continue down the rest of the seam.
The rest of the seam may now be neatened to include the pocket bag. You can use a zigzag stitch or if you have an overlocker even better. I know it’s tricky to overlock around corners so we will be having some tutorials covering that soon.
Turn the garment to the right side and carefully press the pocket to the front.
To give a really nice professional finish and to reinforce the base of the pocket opening you can sew a small bar of satin stitch just at the bottom of the pocket opening.
The pocket from the inside of the garment.