Miranda is the latest to join our pattern range and is a beautifully elegant shape to take you through all seasons. It is available in both paper and PDF formats.
Miranda, like all our patterns, takes her name from one of Shakespeare’s heroines, and her namesake is from The Tempest. Miranda lives in exile with her rather domineering father, Prospero. Consequently she can be perceived as a bit naive. But she is guileless and honest and she has an innocent and empathic soul. She begs her father to have pity on the poor passengers of a storm- tossed ship.
And when love strikes true she stands up to her father and shows she has a brave heart and the spirit to follow it. She faces the world bravely, armed with her own courage and loving heart, finding wonder and joy.
Our Miranda is slightly more shaped than the rest of our dress patterns, Miranda is still a comfortable fit through the bust and waist but requires a full length centre back zip.
The streamline princess seams flow over the bust from the shoulders and down into the skirt. These particular seams allow for creating a much better fit for individual figures and draw the eye in and down.
Version 1 has pockets sewn as part of the side front skirt panels and makes up beautifully in a fabric than has a little bit of body, such as soft denim or linen. It would also see you through into the Autumn and work well in a soft needlecord too. Smart enough for work but casual enough for the weekend depending on your choice of fabrics
Version 2 is a simpler make with no pockets, but we will be showing you how to add in seam side pockets in a later tutorial. As there are no pockets this version lends itself to softer more drapey fabrics like Marocain crepe or cotton lawn. And a pretty floral fabric looks perfect for the Summer or for more of a ‘dressy’ look.
Miranda has two sleeve options. Version 1 has a longer, ¾ length sleeve with a faced notched cuff which can left long or folded back giving the possibility of utilising a contrasting fabric. Version 2 has a simpler cut short sleeve that sits just above the elbow.
The neckline on Miranda can be left clean and gently rounded, or you can choose to echo the Version 1 sleeves and include the notch at the centre front.
Shakespeare’s Miranda is a character that induces hope and admiration. In fact her name means “that which must be admired’ and we hope you’ll be admired in whichever way you choose to make up your own versions of Miranda.
At last we have moved the entire contents of the shop and everything else we have over to the new, even bigger studio space. Information on how to find us is on our Contact Page
The tables are set up, the machines working, the tea is in the pot and the printers fired up! Hat’s off the the SMS ladies who worked so hard and were totally awesome at moving us lock, stock and very large printer into the new studio.
We’ve already had our first SASSY Club and I’ve been teaching on a couple of workshops too. The feedback we’ve had on the new environment has been wonderfully positive!
So it’s the same as before – but a little bit different.
You can still purchase your favourite fabrics, haberdashery and patterns from our online shop, but we are no longer operating an ‘open door’ shop, nine to five, five days a week. We will be increasing the number of products that will be available online to ensure that you have everything you need to make up any of our patterns. And if you do a workshop with us, you can buy anything we’ve got online, there and then!
Doing this means that we have a lot more time to devote to designing and creating more patterns for you to enjoy making and wearing. We can write, photograph and even film more tutorials to help you improve your sewing and become confident creating your own handmade wardrobe.
And this is the most exciting thing for me. I really enjoy teaching some of the sewing and pattern cutting workshops we run, but I appreciate that only a small percentage of you can physically come and join us. So being able to focus on producing more in-depth tutorials and even online video versions of some of our workshops and courses is our goal for the coming months. We already have the next pattern ready and waiting for you and it’ll be available very soon.
Another wonderful thing about our new workshop and studio space is that we can now separate the different parts of the business. Although Sew Me Something was how we started, we have been offering different types of workshops, not just sewing, for a while. And we want to be able to continue and develop this by providing a space for different types of craft and creative workshops to run. We are all aware of the positive benefits craft, making things and generally getting creative has on our wellbeing and we want to be able to offer alternatives to sewing.
Yes, there really are some people who prefer to do other crafts! Shocking, I know!
With this in mind we will be working with other creatives to provide workshops in photography, lino cutting, weaving and a whole host of other things too. Now as we are going to be doing more than just sewing in our new workshop space, we thought we might give it a more appropriate name – so we have called it The Makers’ Space.
So you’ll be able to Sew Me Something at The Makers’ Space. Or learn to crochet at the Makers’ Space, or get to grips with your DSLR camera at The Maker’s Space, or even create stained glass Christmas decorations at The Makers’ Space. Sew Me Something is still here too, but we’ll be upstairs creating and developing new ideas and patterns for you to enjoy.
We are aiming for The Makers’ Space to become Your space to learn, create, have a great time and even make new friends. So watch this space and we shall keep you posted on what’s coming soon.
If there is anything you’d like to learn or to find out more about, or even if you would like to run a workshop with us do let us know. We always love to hear from you.
When I design patterns I nearly always find ways of altering them and adapting them in some way. I guess I just don’t like to play by the rules, or be told what to do – even if it’s by myself.
So with the Julia Top, although I love her hip-length, as she was originally created, I have found myself preferring her a bit longer.
Most patterns will have lengthen or shorten lines on them and Julia is no exception. These marks let you know the best place to add in extra fabric, or to reduce the amount of fabric, in the best places so as not to alter the lines of the pattern too much.
With the Julia, and her integrated pockets, proportion is key. So while I could just slap a bit of extra paper on the bottom of the pattern it’s going to leave the pockets rather high in proportion to the new length of the garment.
This is why I cut across the Front of the Julia pattern ABOVE the pockets. This way I could insert another 15cm of fabric to lengthen the top and keep the pockets in the correct place. The back was easier, here I could just slap on another 15cm to the hem of the top. And by “slap on” I do, of course, mean carefully measure and ensure the added on paper is parallel to the existing hem.
Now I have to confess I am a Prittstick fan. I know it’s easier to use tape sometimes, but when I go back to use my patterns again, (and being the slightly obsessive person I am about patterns I need to press them to sit flat after being folded away), I find it tricky to avoid the tape with the iron. And you really don’t want melted sticky tape on the base of your iron – trust me!
This is why I prefer glue. Once glued on you can sweep the iron over added-on paper or other pattern alterations without having to worry about becoming stuck – literally!
With the Julia’s I have in a heavier weight sweatshirting I prefer to have a slightly higher neckline too. To do this I draw on the shoulder seam allowance on both the front and back pattern pieces.
Stick a bit of extra paper under each of the pattern pieces, but make sure to keep them as individual pieces otherwise you won’t be able to separate them afterwards.
Then overlap the shoulders, making sure that the seam lines are on top of each other.
Now mark on your new neckline. I didn’t really want mine higher, just not quite so wide. Remember to factor in the width of the neckband as this will reduce the size of the neck opening too.
Now is a good time to measure out and calculate the length of the neckband. I explain how to do this over on the Woven Peaseblossom tutorial.
Once you have the pattern altered it will make up in exactly the same way as the original pattern. You should be able to overlock this together really quickly, in fact the only bit of actual ‘sewing’ is the seam across the front to create the pockets. But if you’re pretty nifty on an overlocker you could even do that seam on one as well.One tip I will share is that you can use a twin needle to finish off the neck band. It just ensures the seam lays flat and sits neatly. Just to prove contrary I haven’t actually done it on this new yellow one because I quite liked it just as it was.
But I have on one of my older ones.
Although, I have acquired a new coverstitch machine and this will do the job as well. (I just have to get mine out of the box and find some time to play with it.)
To finish off this pattern hack I decided to add a cuff at the hem. Remember when calculating how deep to make the cuff you will need to double that measurement as the finished cuff is a double layer of fabric.
If you are using a proper rib it will usually come as a narrower tube of fabric. So for this Julia I chose to make a cuff 8cm deep. So I cut two strips of 18cm – 2 lots of 8 + 2 lots of 1cm seam allowance.
Open up the tubes so they are two long pieces, one for the front and one for the back. These pieces will be loo long to fit onto either the front or the back so they need to be trimmed down.
I made this one 14cm narrower than the body so it will bring in the hem slightly to create more of a ‘sweater dress’ kind of look.
Join the two ribbing pieces into a loop and then fold in half with the right sides on the outside. The bottom cuff then attaches to the hem in the same way as the sleeve cuff. Use the side seams on the cuff to match up to the side seams on the top. Then you can match up the centre fronts and centre backs of both the cuff and top.
This is my latest Julia Hack. I hope you have a go at hacking one too.
You can always join us for a Julia Workshop if you would like some support and expert tuition to help you get yours hacked.
Word has been creeping out about this, but we are now ready to make our Big Announcement.
We Are Moving!
The time has come to move out of The Minories and into a new home. We have spent 6 happy years in our current location but we have outgrown the space we’re in now. The high street is changing and our business has grown and developed in new and exciting ways in the time we have been here.
We will still be providing top notch workshops, with expert tutors, a truly friendly welcome and incredibly tasty cakes. And we shall still have a carefully curated selection of fabrics and haberdashery that will meet the needs of the workshops we run and the patterns we create.
But opening the ‘shop’ at more selected times will enable us to focus on producing more patterns and developing the business in a more sustainable way. Our long term vision is not only to help people improve their sewing skills but to enable them to learn different crafts as well, and to help them develop their own creativity and enhance their mental wellbeing too.
The move will mean a bigger studio with more space for different types of workshops, all on the ground floor, and with free parking right outside the studio too, so no need to worry about over-running your parking ticket!
Our new home will be on the Alscot Estate just on the edge of Stratford upon Avon on the Shipston Road. A beautiful drive down the farm track will take you to a group of converted farm buildings that house a range of other businesses. Our New Studio is 3b on the Grove Business Park in Alderminster.
Now we have the keys and the work of transformation has already started turning it into an oasis of crafting calm. We will let you know how the renovations are going and keep you posted on social media.
We will be closing the doors at the Minories on Saturday 7th April and will be opening the news doors of Sew Me Something at The Maker’s Space Studio at Grove Business Park for our lovely SASSY Club Members on Wednesday 18th April. So all workshops listed on our website after this date will be in the lovely new studio. You will still be able to buy fabric, patterns and everything else online while we are in the process of moving.
I appreciate change is not everyone’s cup of tea but our new location is really easy to find and once we have worked our magic there it will be a fantastic space offering creative workshops and training for other local businesses. I am so excited about all of the new things we are going to be able to offer here.
So please watch this space for more exciting news…
We have had a couple of major events back to back hence the time it’s taken to put fingers to keyboard and blog about the wonderful weekend we had on the Sewing Retreat.
It really was a weekend of sewing bliss. I firmly believe everyone learnt from it too, including Claire-Louise and me.
There was a diverse range of projects on the go from day one including, trousers, jackets, a coat, a jumpsuit, various tops and even children’s wear too, which reflected the different levels of ability and sewing confidence. It also kept CL and me on our toes as we never knew what was going to be asked of us – just the way we liked it!
It was also a great opportunity to see how others dealt with the tricky issues of fit. Because let’s face it there is rarely a pattern out there that doesn’t require some form of major adjustment or even minor tweak somewhere. There were more than several occasions where a small group had gathered to talk through some fit challenges faced by someone in particular. Claire-Louise and I helping them sort out their own problems definitely helped the others see their way through some thorney sewing and fitting issues too. Sharing different methods of alterations and pattern adjustments helped us all make more sense of our own body shapes and how we fit our own clothes better.
It was also lovely to be able to see another professional tackle sewing challenges as well. Having two heads come at the same problem from different perspectives I think really helped the Retreaters make sense of things too. I felt reassured by CL being there, and although from different backgrounds, mine fashion and CL costume, seeing her deal with issues in a similar way affirmed my own way of sewing and teaching style.
Several of the early risers made use of the pool for a refreshing swim before breakfast and on Saturday night some of the retreaters returned to the sewing room after dinner and they kept us there until gone 10:30pm! Hardcore sewing! But that is what the luxury of a retreat is all about. You could sew as much or as little as you wished and we were there to help every step of the way.
The response from the lovely ladies on the retreat has been overwhelmingly positive. All have enjoyed their weekend and learnt things they never knew before. Their confidence has grown and they have achieved even more than they’d hoped.
We have also learnt from the weekend and will be able to improve on this one for the NEXT Sewing Retreat.
Yes, we are going to do this all over again in August. So if you weren’t able to join us in February, come and sew with us over August Bank Holiday. If you want to treat yourself, improve your sewing and meet some wonderful people you will not be disappointed!
I know this might sound like telling my Grandma how to suck eggs, but it is an issue we come across time and time again in our workshops. So I thought I would just go over my method to see if it can help you too.
Now I also know that not everyone likes to pin out their patterns on to the fabric and they use weights and a rotary cutter instead – that’s absolutely fine. If you do prefer to pin, and I must admit I do, then there is an easy way of doing it.
We find sometimes in our workshops there is a temptation to try and lift up the pattern and fabric and slide your hand in underneath so you can feel where the pin is as you pin the paper pattern to the fabric
However, this can distort the fabric laying underneath the pattern as you’re lifting it. The easiest way to pin a pattern to the fabrics is this:
Lay all your pattern pieces out onto your fabric first before pinning. You can double check everything is in the correct place – all the pieces that need to be on a fold are on a fold and that all the grain lines are parallel to the selvedges, and that you have enough fabric to fit all the pattern pieces on.
Start by pinning the corners of the pattern piece. Try and keep the pin diagonally across the corner as this will hold more of the pattern paper flat.
Ensure that the whole pin sits on the paper and doesn’t hang off the edge. Even just 1mm over the edge of the paper could potentially get caught on your precious fabric shears and leave them with a frustrating notch in the cutting blade and render them useless.
Next look at any long edges on the paper pattern that might lift up and then pin along those.
Space your pins roughly a hand width apart and make sure they sit parallel to the edge of the pattern paper.
Curves are next and usually only two or three pins will suffice. Too many pins may distort the edge of the pattern paper and make it trickier to cut the fabric.
Once your pattern is in place you’re ready to cut!
Remember to throw out any blunt or bent pins as they are just plain annoying and of no use to anyone!
There are no hard and fast rules in sewing really, whatever works best for you. But these are just a few tips I have picked up over the years and I hope they work for you.
Do let me know how you get along with pinning. Are there any tips that work well for you? Or anything you’re not sure about?
This is one of the sayings my Grandma used to come out with. Some of her others were, “That which doesn’t kill you, makes you stronger” and “When life throws you lemons, make lemonade.” And all of them are true!
You really can’t pour from something that is empty, in other words continuing to look after everyone else without looking after yourself will leave you an empty vessel – tired, irritable and unhappy. You can’t keep giving and not replace what has been given. It is so important to remember that a little bit of self care goes a very long way. After all the in-flight safety demonstrations always say put your own oxygen mask on first before helping anyone else.
So why can this make us feel so guilty? Maybe it’s because I’m a Mum? After all they pass you the bundle of guilt that goes along with the baby as soon as it’s born! Or is it just that I have been brought up to put others before yourself?
This is something I have been asking myself a lot recently. Since Charlie’s accident, or the Bearded One’s Attempt to Fly as it’s known in our house. I have been doing a lot of ‘looking after’. Charlie, obviously, the kids, my business, his business, our finances, the chickens, the cats, extended family… the list goes on. And that’s fine I’m really not complaining. I am happy to do all of this, it’s my life I’m looking after.
Or is it? I have struggled to make time for myself in all of this and that is neglecting an important part of my life – Me. I have felt incredibly guilty about having time away from home or work. No-one else makes me feel this way, I am more than capable of doing it all by myself, but I am learning to be kinder to myself. To lower the somewhat unachievable expectations I have of myself and to allow myself to just be. I’m even scheduling it in to my day now.
I am getting up half an hour earlier so I can have a peaceful cup of coffee reading and planning my sewing projects.
Yes I am going to make time to sew just for me, something I rarely have a chance to do. Well I say that but it’s up to me isn’t it. How I decide to spend my time is, up to a point, my decision. So I have decided to allow myself some time during my week to sew for me. It might not be every week and that’s OK.
This is me giving myself a hug and saying “it’s alright to leave the dishwasher for a couple of hours. It’ll still be there when you get back. Now why isn’t that collar sitting right? And how are you going to fix it?”. We can be a best friend to ourselves or our own worst critic and I know I’d much rather have more friends, even if it’s just me.
Now as we all know sewing feeds the soul. So I am going to fill my soul/vessel with sewing projects this year.
And this is my list of sewing projects so far. Or my #Sew9for2018 if you’ve been following this on instagram.
A white linen shirt. Oversized of course.
A pair of Hero Trousers with a front fly this time
A new pair of Rosalind PJ’s
A swimming costume that will cope with my capacious bosoms.
The ultimate, classic shirt waister dress
A new Winter coat
Some training gear – running leggings and a vest. Does that count as 2?
A super comfy hoodie for my inner teenager.
My daughter’s Prom dress
Pictures and plans on all of the above will follow…
Are you being kind to yourself? Do you find it a struggle and if so how do you tell yourself it’s OK?
This is something I have been wanting to host for a while. We have run so many weekend workshops now and have seen how much people enjoy themselves sewing and making various projects. So we have decided to host our very own Sewing Retreat.
From Friday 23rd to Sunday 25th February 2018
A chance to sew, chat, make friends, learn, fit, practice, perfect and just chill. All in luxury surroundings. Because let’s face it we all need a little bit of pampering sometimes and we can certainly provide some sewing pampering here!
We looked at various locations for this retreat as, although we have a large studio, we needed more space and accommodation very close. So this is what we have come up with…
The Sew Me Something Sewing Retreat
Three whole days of sewing heaven working on your own sewing projects at the Crowne Plaza Luxury Hotel right on the River Avon in the centre of Stratford itself close to the RSC.
If you need help fitting or with specific techniques or processes, you’ll have the time and space to work through any issues or projects with expert help and tuition on hand if you need it. So you may have wanted to nail the fit on that pair of trousers you’ve been wanting to make for ages. Or have a go on an overlocker and whizz up a Bianca coat before working on a couple of other projects. Ot perhaps you want some space to cut a few projects out and then decide which to make – the choice is yours!
The Crowne Plaza has provided us with an excellent sewing studio space that we will fully equip with sewing machines, overlockers, cutting tables and pressing stations. But you can choose to bring your own machines if you prefer to work on something more familiar.
There will be help and guidance on the machines when required and also we will be running a few Masterclass Demonstrations on some key processes we know are the ones people find tricky.
So this Retreat really will move your sewing up to the next level as well as give you time to focus and relax.
There will be plenty of tea coffee and cakes to keep you sewing throughout the weekend and a gourmet restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner too.
When you’re not sewing you can relax using the hotel facilities including gym, swimming pool, sauna and steam room to ease away any residual sewing tension. (Yes that is a pun :-))
What’s included in the Sewing Retreat….
A cuppa and cake on arrival
Help to make your sewing plans for the weekend using our sewing planner
Use of all the sewing machines, overlockers and equipment from 9am to 6pm.
A chance to visit Sew Me Something to stock up on sewing supplies
Expert help and advice on all your sewing projects
Expert help and advice on fitting and pattern alterations
Lunch and dinner on Friday
Breakfast, lunch and dinner on Saturday
Breakfast and lunch on Sunday
Comfortable twin or single bedrooms for two nights
Use of all the hotel facilities including swimming pool, sauna, steam room and gym
We may also be arranging additional optional activities or visits during the weekend as well. But we’ll let you know more about these later…
To be honest I have tried to create the kind of weekend I would love to go on myself. This is going to be the Ultimate Sewing Weekend, if you like, and I am so excited about what a great weekend this is going to be. Don’t worry if you are thinking of coming on your own you will soon make friends and we will do all we can to look after you and make you welcome.
This is what some of our past workshop attendees have said about joining us…
“Like a holiday doing something I love doing.”
“Jules is incredible at explaining and offers such a bespoke service it’s incredible! Would recommend to everyone interested in learning how to sew.”
“Fantastic, basic but challenging patterns and final products looked excellent. Gorgeous cake. Friendly instruction. Loved it!”
“Great atmosphere. Lots of information, tips and enthusiasm. The course has given me the confidence to try other sewing projects. Thanks J x”
“Great to learn new projects and ease of understanding and help when stuck! Invisible zip yes! yes! Pattern alterations very very good!”
“Workshop was just the right level, very informative. Jules was an excellent tutor, calm and patient. Will be back for more!”
We are deliberately keeping the participant numbers small this time to make sure that all those that join us get a really good chunk of tutor time if they need it. So I can guarantee you will leave the Sewing Retreat knowing more than you did when you arrived.
I can’t wait to host this weekend, it is going to be wonderful and I can’t wait to see you there.
We will be providing an Early Bird special price until
“Every cloud has a silver lining” – This is one of those glib little phrases that get churned out when we’re told bad news by someone and we don’t really know what to say, but want to say something reassuring in the hope that everything will be alright in the end.
It’s a phrase I have muttered to myself multiple times daily for nearly a month now. Because on Halloween my lovely, but rather forgetful, husband fell 8 feet from some scaffolding and broke his back. Yes that’s right he broke his back. He fell so hard a vertebra exploded and then went back into almost the right place again – almost. The pressure on his spinal cord meant his legs were effectively being electrocuted for two days. The pain from nerve damage is not like anything else. Broken bones or even child birth don’t have anything on it, it’s in a category all on its own.
For those who follow me or my husband Charlie Budd on social media you have probably seen the references to it and that he is going to be alright. He wasn’t though, and for a several heart stopping hours I really thought our lives were going to be thrown off the edge of a cliff. I am sure the sight of a woman walking through the hospital car park at 2am in the morning sobbing uncontrollably can’t be that unusual, surely.
The hours during Charlie’s surgery to insert permanent pins and rods into his spine (effectively making him bionic!) and those waiting for him to come back onto the ward again were painfully, achingly slow and some I would never wish on even my worst enemy.
But he is on the mend now after some incredible medics and surgeons have literally bolted him back together. When you really need it the NHS is a truly wonderful thing. The pins and rods he has had inserted into his back fuse several vertebrae together stablising the broken one while it heals. He has to wear a body brace to support his back and prevent him from bending and twisting for three months and then we can work on the physio side of things. But after all this he actually managed to walk out of the hospital only two weeks after he fell.
How can I possibly find a silver lining out of this?
Well for a start he could be paralysed or even dead and he isn’t so we can tick those boxes!
The injuries Charlie has sustained mean he will take a long time to recover and return to normal. The thing is we don’t quite know what normal is going to be just yet. He can walk, well more of a shuffle really, and as he says himself “he ain’t gonna win any races against a three toed sloth any time soon!” But he is getting stronger and more mobile every day. (Thanks be to all the Gods that ever existed!)
However, this is going to be a life changing event for us. He cannot work for at least six months and even then he won’t be able to return to his former occupation. Charlie was a high end painter and decorator with an attention to detail I have rarely seen matched. He is/ was booked up for most of next year already. But there is certainly no way he’s going near any more ladders even if he were able to bend and move enough to be able to do all the things he did before.
This could be viewed as a disaster, a tragedy, a calamity, how are we going to cope? And this dear reader is where my silver lining comes in. Where the little sunbeam rays of hope creep their shiny fingers around the oppressive clouds of doom.
Charlie, although very good at painting, has other talents too. Some of you may have seen his instagram posts as @thetallphotographer on instagram. He is well versed in photography having taken pictures since he was a child, and more recently proved a dab hand at cinemagraphs and plotagraphs. If you want to see what those are have a look at his Instagram feed.
For a long while now we have both been coasting along doing what we’re doing and not being completely satisfied with the direction of travel. Don’t get me wrong I love teaching and all things sewing related, especially pattern cutting! But we have felt that we weren’t quite where we wanted to be with our respective businesses. Charlie is a creative soul and needs to be channeling that creativity in a more satisfying way. He is extremely good at putting together small but perfectly formed videos showcasing independent businesses and has been working on this more recently with a view to turning it into a business. This is now becoming a reality as editing is something he can do in small bouts of sitting at his Mac.
Queue a massive kick up the pants! A life changing event. A chance to take stock.
Now I don’t advocate that taking a nosedive from some scaffolding is the answer to everyone’s prayers but it has brought us up short. Made us take a good, hard look at what we’ve got, where we want to be and how are we going to get there.
It has made us reassess what’s important. We both work bonkers hours and actually enjoy working but do we need to do it how we were doing it? Is there a better way? Can we get off the treadmill we’re on and create a better life?
I think we can. So while breaking your back and being in screamingly excruciating pain really fucking sucks, (and I make no apologies for swearing, I’ve done an awful lot of that too lately: I’ve seen my husband in screaming agony – literally, and I’ve seen the MRI scans of his broken back), the silver linings really are becoming visible.
I’m working from home more and will be for the foreseeable future, but I am actually more productive. I have a new vision for where I want to go with Sew Me Something, what we can provide to you the sewers and dressmakers, and I have a better idea of how we are going to get there. So watch this space.
Another of the wonderfully glib phrases that springs to mind here is “when life gives you lemons – make lemonade”.
“RIGHT” (she says hands on hips standing in the middle of the room) “pass me the fucking juicer!!!”
This is a tutorial I have been meaning to put up here for some time now, but with one thing and another it has taken me until now.
The Imogen Top is a pretty straightforward one to put together but to get the front placket absolutely ‘bang on’ takes a bit of accuracy so here is how I do it.
Make sure you have interfaced the placket pieces (and one of the neckbands.)
Like anything it’s the prep that makes all the difference. So marking the stitching points for the placket opening are key. I use a pin and a marker pen for added accuracy, rather than tailor’s tacks or chalk, but whatever works for you. Just remember the A word!!
The little dot at the corner of the placket opening is marked by poking a pin through the dot on the paper and then gently lifting the paper away from the fabric and marking where the pin goes through the fabric with the pen.
You can then flip over the fabric and where the pin comes out of the second layer mark with the pen again.
On the placket pieces make sure to mark the small dot at one end using the same method of poking the pin through and marking with a pen on both pieces to make sure you get a pair.
Now when you come to offer up the placket pieces to the front neck opening you can match up these dots exactly. Remember to place the RIGHT side of the PLACKET to the WRONG side of the FRONT. This way you end up doing the topstitching on the right side keeping it nice and tidy.
Sew down the sides of the opening attaching the placket pieces with a 1cm seam allowance. Again accuracy here with the seam allowance will mean it’s easier to finish the placket neatly.
Make sure to finish exactly on the dot!
You should have two perfectly level rows of stitching. (If you mark everything accurately.)
Press the placket away from the front so it lies over the seam allowances.
Flip the front over and snip into the ends of the lines of stitching. Again it’s the A word. Accuracy is important here too, because if you don’t snip right up to the ends of sewing you will get “woolly corners”, to quote my old needlework teacher, when you try to pull the placket over to the right side.
You must snip in far enough to allow the placket to sit flat after being pulled over to the right side.
Press under the raw edge that is left on the placket by just under 1cm.
Fold the pressed edge over to enclose the seams and to sit just over the sewing line of the seam. Pin in place along the length of the placket. Pinning this way will hold more of the placket in place as you sew.
If the folded placket doesn’t ‘fill the space’ ie. sit neatly inside the gap without hanging over or leaving a gap between the other placket pieces you may need to adjust how much has been folded under in the previous step.
Flip the front over and you can see the little triangular pieces of the front left behind the placket.
Flip the placket pieces back over to the wrong side and fold the triangular piece down. Fold the placket pieces back in place.
Make sure they are even along the bottom edges, and create a perfect V shape from the right side. The triangular piece is tucked down to the wrong side now so it should look nice and neat and level.
Sew from the right side along the edge of the placket piece. Make sure that none of the original placket seam stitching is visible and that the placket hangs just over that line of sewing.
Drop the needle down so you can pivot and sew along the bottom of the folded over triangular piece. Stop just in time so you can pivot again and do one stitch to take you back onto the other placket piece.
Sew back up the edge of the other placket piece. You should have a row of sewing that comes down one edge of the placket hops onto the front, across the flat bottom of the placket, hops back onto the other side of the placket and up the other side.
You can remove the marker pens spots with a paintbrush and a dab of water. You may note while reading through this tutorial that I haven’t used stay stitching around the opening as described in the pattern instructions. This is for several reasons:
I find the extra stitching can get in the way of real accuracy.
They can remain visible after sewing in the placket.
Most of the time a stable fabric is used so it’s not strictly necessary. And if it’s not necessary there’s no point!
I’m not a “sewing purist,” so am quite happy to use whatever processes I feel I need wherever I feel I need them – or not.
I included the stay stitching in the instructions as a way of making sure to get an accurate opening following feedback from our pattern testers. But please let me know if you use stay stitching here of if you prefer not to.
There are always ‘better’ ways of doing things and sharing the knowledge is what we’re all about. 🙂